The name ‘Café’ is misleading since this is definitely a smørrebrød restaurant in the classic sense. But Café Gammeltorv is one of Copenhagen’s oldest restaurants, and during its history of several hundred years, it was, at one point, a café. The present decor has not changed much since the 1940s, but the smørrebrød quality has.
This is due to owners Fabienne and Steen Sørensen who took over around 10 years ago. Eager to participate in the process of bringing the smørrebrød more in tune with the gastronomic revolution Denmark underwent in those years, they brought with them high ambitions to raise the restaurant up to rank among the best.
The couple have succeeded in combining the authentic, old-fashioned restaurant style with an up-to-date kitchen, and although Fabienne is no longer heading the service personally, it is still personal and out of the ordinary.
The quality of the produce is high, and the smørrebrød style is classic. One of the specialities I recommend and often eat is the Stjerneskud (‘Shooting Star’), a combination of fried and poached plaice served on white bread.